A Week and Two Days at the Hot Spring

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I heard the distinct sound of BazaGuru reciting from the Hot Spring well, where Agay Dopchu from Ozorong was clearly enjoying himself a bit too much. His storytelling, filled with humor and teasing jokes about Ngalong women, seemed to be a favorite pastime of his.

From December to March is the ideal season for those who love Tsachu, or hot springs. For my father, it’s been a tradition to visit Gelephu Tsachu at least once a year. My mother prefers Chubu Tsachu in Punakha. Visiting these hot springs has been a family custom for as long as my father can remember, tracing back to his great-grandfather. I had the privilege of accompanying my parents as their personal cook, handling everything from meal preparations to shopping and even waking up in the middle of the night to make tea and porridge. This made me the preferred companion out of all seven siblings.

Winter is the best time to visit hot springs, which are believed to have medicinal properties. In Bhutanese culture, these sites are considered sacred, blessed by saints with mystical powers. Everyone is encouraged to experience the natural beauty and healing qualities of these hot springs.

Chubu Tsachu is nestled in the scenic Punakha Valley, along the Phochu River. It used to require a 5-hour trek from Samdingkha, but now a road extends to Nabdingkha Valley, reducing the walk to just 2-3 hours. It’s a pleasant trek with fresh air and stunning views, and horses can help carry your supplies. If long walks aren’t your thing, Gelephu Tsachu in the south is more accessible, just 15 kilometers from town by car.

Spending nine days at Tsachu was one of the most memorable experiences of my life, and I hope to visit again every year. I recall a 12-year-old boy in a red jacket with a cane of Tongma as I approached the Tsachu pools. The previous year, my family had returned from Chubu Tsachu, and this year, we chose Gelephu Tsachu, much to my mother’s initial reluctance.

At the time, I was in 11th grade. We packed a range of supplies from Paro, including dry chilies, red rice, a mini gas stove, blankets, a tent, dried vegetables, biscuits, lanterns, butter, salt, snacks, milk, a torch, matches, cheese, eggs, noodles, tea, and more. My sisters had done a grand shopping spree the day before to stock up on modern necessities.

At Tsachu, I took on the cooking duties and managed the supplies until the end of our stay. The experience was incredibly enjoyable. I spent hours soaking in the hot spring, absorbing its minerals. I couldn’t help but admire the beautiful women around me, with their stylish outfits and vibrant looks. Despite my shyness and discomfort with romantic advances, the sight of them left a lasting impression.

The joy I felt at Tsachu was more than just from the hot springs. It came from the lively interactions with fellow visitors—trekkers, families, couples, monks, and more. The shared laughter, jokes, songs, and the simple pleasures of cooking and eating together created a deep sense of happiness. These experiences reminded me of the true essence of Gross National Happiness, found in the moments shared with others and the memories created.